India's coasts are attracting professional surfers from countries as far as Norway and Switzerland, but locals are yet to embrace the waves
Verghese Antony, head surf instructor at Soul and Surf, rides the waves in Varkala, Kerala
Image: Jamie Mitchell
Varkala, a small coastal town in Kerala about an hour from Thiruvananthapuram, could pass off as an ideal destination for tourists, with its pristine beaches and clifftops. The sea reflects the clear blue skies and if you are lucky, you could even spot a dolphin or two. But for the surfers who gather here from across the world, this peaceful locale is where all the action is.
From professional surfers who wander across the globe in search of challenging swells to beginners who are cautious of the sea, Varkala and its neighbouring areas are being counted among the surfing hotspots of the country. Surfing in India is slowly getting attention within India and also outside the country. Spots such as Varkala and Kovalam in Kerala, Puducherry near Chennai, Tamil Nadu, and Mulki, 40 minutes from Mangaluru in Karnataka, are gaining traction among seasoned surfers as well as amateurs.
Back in Varkala, early on a winter morning, a group of surfing enthusiasts and trainers from Soul and Surf (S&S) Club is on its way to Edava beach along with instructors. They have the beach to themselves, since it is a Friday and the local fishermen, who are mostly Muslim, take the day off from work. Verghese Antony, head surf instructor at S&S, says they have to change their surfing spot every day, depending on which beach is less crowded; on some days it’s Edava, while on others it is Kaapil, and so on. The surfers are primarily from Europe, with a few from the US, while the trainers are locals from Varkala
Edava beach is flanked by cliffs on one side, and is lined with colourful fishing boats. The beginners form a circle beside the boats, and start their warm up routine, learning new postures atop their surfboards before entering the water. They learn how to paddle while lying on the board, and how to balance themselves while standing and riding a wave. The experienced surfers are already deep into the water, looking, from a distance, like a group of people sitting on the surface of the sea and relaxing.
Once the warm up is complete, the beginners, too, head into the sea, surfboard in hand and its leash attached to one of their ankles. They are accompanied by their instructors, who, in addition to training the learners, also ensure that everyone is safe. The experienced surfers are already catching one swell after the other, skilfully manoeuvring through the waves. This is how a typical surfing school in India functions; most schools that are certified by different surfing associations have trained instructors who are also trained lifeguards.
(This story appears in the 28 February, 2020 issue of Forbes India. To visit our Archives, click here.)